By bike, boat, bus or on foot ...
... all means are good for travel. But we still prefer on the bike!
After leaving Ancona, the city to the different facets (neighborhoods of port and cosmopolitan station, the historic old town, and the very "trendy" modern Center), therefore found gently Croatia.
Split, we took the bus to Zadar more to the North.
Why this detour?
At the base we wanted to take a boat to Zadar: but no way to find this season. We were told that Croatia by bicycle, it is really nice, and Dalmatia it is very beautiful. It frustrated us so or Split it well South of in zapper as much. Suddenly, after hesitation, it is stayed on our idea and decided to take a bus to Zadar!
Arrived at Zadar, we did a small tour of the city by bike; then we left to the adventure... for 20kms only before finding the place perfect for bathing and... Finally also perfect to lay the tent for the night! At the edge of the water, protected from prying and wind.
The next day, the sky is overcast, the wind front stood: there are the feelings of our days.
On the road, it was a few kilometres with an albano-Italian cyclo and his dog in a cart. Nice and well courageous!
The afternoon, while we were preparing our meals, another meeting, more far-fetched that there: a couple of Croatian quite happy déboule. And here they give us a bottle of beer (from 2L!) to open, try to discuss Croatian where we are and where we are going, what we eat... they're very speed and cheerful, and they leave as soon they arrived we speaking of a history of fish, to come see them. It has not quite understood and it was not found so we continue our way on the edge of the lake where we are... always the wind.
After a cloudy day, found refuge in a sort of abandoned, clean house and sheltered from the wind.
The next day, after the visit of Sibenik, lovely town in stone with all small alleys, it has traveled a great coastal road. Little traffic and nice views on small islands. At a break in the middle of a side, we are surrounded by Japanese in a few seconds. Two busloads of Japanese who had stopped to see the view have observed our bikes every angle, asked lots of questions through their guide who spoke french. A small Granny is taken pity for my calves full of buttons of mosquitoes and began to brush me with its soothing Japanese product; I even left with the end of the bottle. In short, it has good laugh!
After a nice day, a mega-too many spot dodo: less than a metre of water, under a large pine tree near a village. You slept too well and too much class the sunrise in the morning! Such spots warrant all kms by bike and thigh pain!
After 50 km still under the clouds, we arrive in Split. We decide to stay there until the next day where we will take a boat to the Islands. Having regard to all the busloads of tourists there, Thomas leave well immediately by the last boat. But we were told that it was a lovely city to visit, then we are a hostel. For 10 euros each, we are in an apartment ' F3 where there is another young, we've got our bathroom and our room. The owner is a young MILF who lives upstairs from the top and which is little care we give advice and check that we lack nothing. We really like at home! It is hyper relaxing after several nights in the tent! If you are looking for a hostel in Split, it is "cheap and sweet", and we highly recommend it!
We spend the evening in the streets of Split, emptied of the busloads of tourists. It's Friday so young people are all out, there are plenty of gigs in bars. Moreover we stop in one of them, and the waitress offers us a small glass of local liqueur: the rakija. In short, we have done well to stay, we spent a lovely evening in this city/old Diocletian's Palace, Roman emperor (read the article, it's interesting, Sisi!)
We leave the continent the next afternoon for 2 h 30, Vera Luca boat, at the end of the island of Korcula (pronounced 'kortchula', the 'c' normally has a circumflex returned as they are everywhere in this language :-).
The Sun is back, no clouds, and the night will be beautiful. We even saw shooting stars!
Sunday, to celebrate our 5 weeks of travel, has been one of the most beautiful days since the beginning. We crossed the island from one end to the other by the main road, but we passed cars only every 10 or 15 minutes! There was not a lot of difference, but fairly regular, and suddenly we had views superb sea views, a beautiful blue, and the Islands nearby, well mountainous.
Korcula, the city at the other end (to also visit!), 20 minutes by boat have led us to the almost island next.
From there we followed the coast on an again deserted road. Sunset on the Islands in the face was breathtaking. Hard to find the words to describe this landscape, but it's part of the most beautiful things we saw (the setting sun helping surely not bad) is awesome and quite moving to say that you got there by our own means.
In the evening, we found a petanque pitch (baby Yes, one is sure that it is flat at least!) facing the sea in a village to ask the tent; and with the approval of a guy in the corner! Beautiful Sunrise also suddenly, you you in douterez.
The morning was a different style. Right out of the village, the road turned into very stony path, with beautiful climbs; all under a blazing sun. In fact, the 3-4 that were not "hardcoded" were area that we had identified as being the most offset; but nothing was that it was no longer the bitumen. IEA... Hard passage that will put us to bad nerves and also the physical... Two guys from the village had told us that there was a small area path, but the macadam after, but we did not expect that ca is so long!
We resist the urge to turn and we eventually find the bitumen a little more away. All our energy will come back to that after a swim in the Sea (it's crazy what it relaxes the muscles, the sea!) and a good plate of pasta lunch. And we will continue the day quietly enough, always climbs and descents, to a port of oyster production.
Après une bonne nuit réparatrice, nous sommes en forme pour filer sur Dubrovnik. La route est vraiment superbe. Les îles qu’on voit, le calme de la mer, le turquoise de l’eau près des côtes, tout ca donne une impression vraiment spéciale. Dopés par les paysages et les agréables descentes qui suivent les montées, nous enquillons 50 kms dans la matinée ! Nous fêtons ça en allant déjeuner dans un restaurant de burger. 🙂
We let captivated by the old city of Dubrovnik, prior's back on the road for 35 kms to the South because we visit you at a warmshower.
We get night legs well tired by this big day!
Okay, now, should we speak you of our warmshower!
Marko, 77, lives in a house he built. One could describe it as a former 68'ard, which hosts free many warmshowers and couchsurfer, in its 'Nature Park'. He wants to renovate this off-road there by volunteering. He lived well and tells lots of stories. Great discussions! If you want to learn more, I helped him to launch a project of crowdfunding for the Nature Park Mikuliciyou will find full info and if ca you trying to be part of the project, you can help from lots of different ways!
Our feeling in Croatia
-Evil began, our arrival... Out of the boat, the driver has to see our heads of tourists tired of the night on the boat and freshly arrived in the country to get into the Pocket 7 euros per bike... when it was see the ticket saleswoman, she hesitated and the driver arrived behind telling him that it was good. We were a little annoyed to have been as bruising and did not have the reflex to haggle...
-The smile of the Croats... is it cultural? People sometimes make us a wave of the hand, a cuckoo, but the face is pretty little expressive...
-Tourism here has very Germanic air! People sometimes more easily speak German than English. And in the villages, there are often signs in German.
-Roads: had predicted us fears on the road, and yet, not! We find that cars and trucks are relatively careful to us. We try to take small roads whenever possible, but when we're on the highway, it is quite bearable! That's cool!
-All houses have their garden with cabbage, peppers, pumpkins (they are sometimes doing 1 m diameter!) and their huge lemon, Tangerine and other citrus fruits. It's very colorful!
-Fall: If in Italy we saw the first signs of fall and trees that turn yellow, here the hardwoods are mostly still well Green!
-The prices are almost the same as in France... except beer. It costs the same price, or even sometimes less than sodas. And we see people drink at any time of the day or night.
-Always prices... to get to the game's conversion. Wholesale 8 Kuna, it is 1 euro.
-Noted the first use of our filter water! It drew water from a tap in the mountains of Korcula; She seemed troubled, then in doubt... filtering! It was not sick! (For the moment, RAS on this side here by the way!)