Like an explorer of modern times, here I am in the middle of a forest of cheese makers who are gradually invading the remains of a lost civilization… Pierre Loti said about Angkor Wat in 1901: “This temple is the one of the places in the world where men have piled up the most stones, accumulated the most sculptures, ornaments, foliage, flowers and faces. It’s not as simple as the beautiful lines of Thebes or Boalbek. It is confusing in terms of complexity as well as enormity. From…